Coffee in Italy

Don Senneville and Jim White

We have traveled to Sicily in search of the ‘Holy Grail’ of caffeine. And we have hit the jackpot (so to speak). Whether it’s standing to throw back a shot of espresso or lingering for an hour over a cappuccino, coffee here is a way of life. Four espressos a day keeps the doctor away!

The average Italian adult does indeed consume four cups of espresso per day. This amount of caffeine appears to be required in order to maintain maximum ‘Situational Awareness’ when zipping down five-foot-wide streets on an electric Vespa. Charging stations are free here in Sicily, thereby amping up both the driver and the vehicle. Somehow, even Mercedes vans can negotiate these streets. Walkers must maintain ‘Sit-Rep’ or die. Wow!

We glide through the ancient walled streets looking for coffee and gelato. Both are ubiquitous and fantastic. Fueled by doppios and pistachios, we dodge our way to the shores of the Ionian Sea to reflect on the history of Syracuse, which brings back memories from school – memories of Greek and Roman history, and the stories of our fathers who liberated Italy in WWII. From Dionysius to Augustus Caesar to Mussolini, this place has seen it all! Don is searching for an Americano, as usual. We reflect on why there are Americanos, but no Germanos or, say, Frenchos.

Bingo! Here’s the menu. Pick one. No Starbucks anywhere!

Finally, our quest takes us to Taormina, Sicily, where the long history of caffeinated conquest is revealed. As we sit in the BCE Greek amphitheater listening to a symphony perform (Don was speechless), it became apparent that our roots are here. Ulysses died in this city in search of the perfect ‘bean.’ Legend has it that the Sirens (think Gina Lollobrigida) lured him with the songs and smells of the magic brew. We are able to resist the contemporary lure of the Bay of Naxos and roam the ancient streets in search of beer. Eureka! We even found French Fries.

We’ll be back to our own Coffee Row in Carefree and Cave Creek in a week or so. See you then, pending the outcome of the solar eclipse. Send us your own coffee travel stories at The Cup, sonorannews.com.